Toxic Cosmetics Marketed to Black Women

On International Women’s Day, it is important to recognize the struggles of those in the global sisterhood fighting for gender justice. For lesbian women of African descent, this struggle is often multifaceted, extending beyond the nationally organized movements. 

This morning, for example, many of us are faced with the task of discerning whether the cosmetics and personal care products we use are safe, or potentially toxic. The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) is a coalition of organizations and individuals dedicated to securing corporate, regulatory, and legislative reforms to protect people from the potentially harmful effects of beauty products, such as hormone disruption, reproductive harm, immune system toxicity, and cancer. 

Unfortunately, the CSC has found that many products contain lead, contaminants, and dibutyl phthalate (DBP), a reproductive and developmental toxin. The organization is striving to get companies to use safer alternatives, and has had some remarkable successes.

In 2002, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) released a report titled “Not Too Pretty: Phthalates, Beauty Products, and the FDA,” which highlighted the potentially damaging effects of beauty products containing phthalates, a family of industrial chemicals linked to permanent birth defects in the male reproductive system. Stacy Malkan, author of Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry, and co-founder of CSC, questioned why beauty companies would market themselves as pink ribbon leaders in the fight against breast cancer, yet use chemicals that could contribute to that very disease. 

Since then, CSC has conducted several campaigns and reports about the potential toxicity of cosmetics and personal care products, particularly those marketed to black women. The campaign, titled “Not So Pretty,” is a reference to Sarah “Saartjie” Baartman, who was derogatorily known as the “Hottentot Venus.” Baartman was a human exhibition in Europe from 1810 until her death in 1815, due to her highly unusual bodily features, such as large buttocks and elongated labia. Her story has become a symbol of the exploitation of black women’s bodies, and the “Not So Pretty” report reveals that black women are disproportionately exposed to toxic chemicals in their communities and workplaces. Products such as skin lighteners and hair relaxers, which are marketed to black women, often contain higher toxicity levels than those marketed to the general population.

Recent research conducted by the University of Pittsburgh Cancer Institute has revealed a potential link between the early and life-long use of hair products, such as heavy conditioners containing placenta and hormone-disrupting ingredients, and the high rates of breast cancer in young African American women. This has raised the issue of safety when it comes to hair care and styling for black women, who are often faced with the dilemma of choosing between natural, nappy hair and chemically straightened hair. 

The most concerning of these products is the unregulated Skin Deep Africa’s Best “Organic” Relaxer, marketed to young black girls despite its potentially harmful ingredients. This raises further questions about the safety of such treatments for those whose bodies are particularly vulnerable. 

Ultimately, the decision of how to style one’s hair is a personal one. This morning, I chose to forgo all products and enjoy the natural beauty of my locks.

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